Brett

Even if you’re diligent about not feeding your pet people food, they smell it and see it on the dining table. Never feed your pet from the table as this whets his appetite for steak and lowers your position as alpha.

There’s a difference between a picky eater and a finicky eater. A picky eater will only occasionally refuse to eat and can be easily tempted with a slice of cheese added to his bowl. A finicky eater is what we deal with here, a dog who has decided he’s giving up dog food for good. First, you want to rule any health issues out first when a dog makes any behavioral change but if your vet gives your pup the thumbs up, there are several ways to get him to eat without disrupting his stomach.

Ways to Persuade a Finicky Eater

1. Tone Down the Treats- A finicky eater is more likely to eat if he’s not comparing his dog food to a liver treat.
2. Feed Often – Try feeding smaller amounts of his regular food three or four times a day.
3. Exercise – It’s good for so many things and it increases a dog’s hunger. Try always exercising your pup before a meal.
4. Spay or Neuter – If you haven’t already, fix your pup. Besides the many health and behavioral benefits, it can help prevent a finicky eater.
5. Make it Positive- Always make feeding time a positive experience. If your pup associates it with irritability or punishment from you, he will be less likely to want to eat.
6. Keep It Quiet – Feed your dog in a quiet area without children or other dogs mulling around.
7. Try Different Times – Some dogs eat better in the afternoon, others eat better an hour after you’re home. Test it and see what time and situation work best for yours.
8. Resist Temptations – Try the other tips before giving into the urge to tempt your finicky pup to eat with people food. You’ll find that a few pieces of cooked chicken will perhaps tempt him for a time but he’ll soon grow bored of that, too.

Read the rest at dogster.com

“Veterinarians report that periodontal disease is the most commonly diagnosed health problem in dogs,” says Dr. Larry Corry, former president of the AVMA. “This can lead to painful infections in the mouth, and in severe cases, these infections can spread and become life-threatening.”

Below, doggie dentists weigh in on how to identify and prevent dental problems in dogs.

Inspect Your Dog’s Teeth at Home

Dr. Katy Nelson, a veterinarian who is also a member of the Iams Pet Wellness Council, suggests you quickly assess your dog’s mouth by looking at his or her gums: Healthy gums are pink as opposed to red, with no buildup of tartar along the gum line. Additionally, a healthy mouth does not produce horribly bad breath.

Your dog’s vet should do an oral exam at each annual visit, says Nelson. “In older dogs especially, they can get abscesses with no easily visible signs. A thorough assessment may require sedation.”

What to Expect at the Vet’s

Dr. Linda DeBowes, a Seattle-based veterinarian, acknowledges that periodontal illness is often a silent disease.

When your veterinarian diagnoses it in your dog, it’s because she has seen plaque, abscesses, loose teeth and lower-jaw fractures, which can occur with chronic dental problems.

“At that point, we need a cleaning to get below the gum line, which requires anesthesia,” says DeBowes. Once under, your dog’s teeth will be cleaned with an ultrasonic scaler or a hand scaler. The veterinarian will look for loose teeth, deep dental pockets, exposed roots or other signs of disease. Some teeth may need to be extracted.

Prevention Really is Key

“Once there is disease there, it’s painful and costly to deal with,” says Dr. Trisha Joyce of NYC Veterinary Specialists. “But you can protect your dog’s teeth just like you protect your own, with daily brushing and regular checkups.” She adds: “The only difference between your dental health and your dog’s is that he can’t do it for himself. His owner has to watch out for him.”

Dr. Brook Niemiec, a board-certified veterinary dental specialist in San Diego, suggests beginning a dental routine with your dog as soon as possible and using the following methods for brushing.

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Both with puppies and dogs with established potty problems, a combination of management, training, and appropriate sanitization is recommended. For adult dogs that have had reliable potty behaviors and suddenly begin having accidents inside, a veterinary visit including urine and/or fecal samples is advised. Instead of thinking of “how to housebreak a puppy” think about how to housetrain a puppy! It is the training, not the puppy that is broken.

Assuming a healthy dog, you’re ready to start training! First, you’ll need some supplies:

• Crate/Ex-Pen
• Tether (a six foot leash is fine)
• Nature’s Miracle enzymatic cleaner
• Treats, toys
• Notebook/record keeping forms
• Patience

Now you’re stocked, and can start training appropriate elimination behaviors.

Step one: Feed on a schedule. Dogs that eat on a schedule eliminate on a schedule.

Step two: Use a notebook or chart to keep track of when your dog eats, drinks, and eliminates. Also note what the dog was doing before the elimination – dogs frequently must “go potty” after: meals, naps, and playtime. Look for “pre-elimination” behaviors and note these – many dogs will sniff around, paw at the ground, or offer other indicator behaviors pre-elimination. These behaviors should become a cue to you to take your dog out for a potty break. Look for patterns; find your dog’s elimination schedule by reviewing your notes after a week or two.

Step three: Management. Use a crate if you are unable to supervise your dog. Purchase a crate that is just large enough for the dog to enter, turn around in, and lie down. Too large crates give dogs enough room to eliminate on one side and relax comfortably out of the mess on the other side. Crating takes advantage of a dog’s natural desire to live in a clean environment.

While crates are great housetraining aids, avoid crating your dog for longer than he can reasonably be expected to hold bladder/bowel movements. Generally, puppies can last one hour more than they are months old up until the age of 6 months, but this will vary for each individual (toy breeds especially may have difficulty “holding it” this long).

If you are gone all day at work and your dog cannot hold it that long, you must either arrange for someone to take the puppy out mid-day or provide a “safe spot” (many people use “potty pads”) until he is mature enough to control his elimination behaviors for the duration of your workday.

Use tethers for management when you are home. Freedom in the home is a privilege that should be earned after potty reliability is established. Tethering the dog to you allows you to recognize pre-elimination behaviors and thus, provide well-timed potty breaks.

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But don’t worry, you don’t have to give up your favorite traditions to have a safe holiday. Watch out for these hazards, supervise your pets closely and try our substitution tips and everyone can have a Hoppy Easter!

The following seven holiday products are the most common Easter dangers:

Eggs – Dyed and Plastic

Shiny plastic eggs may look like toys to your pets. If they chew and swallow the plastic, it can cause intestinal problems that may require surgery. Fresh, hardboiled eggs are not dangerous, but eggs spoil quickly. If days later your pet finds and eats an egg that was undiscovered during the Easter hunt, it can make them very sick. Tip: Keep track of the number of eggs hidden and make sure all are accounted for at the end of the hunt.

Easter Grass

Cats are especially attracted to these shiny shreds, and just like tinsel, ingesting this “grass” may be lethal. Pets can not digest it, leading to the threads getting stuck in and damaging their intestines. Tip: A better choice? Try using paper, or even real grass!

Chocolate

Most adults already know how dangerous chocolate is for pets, but it is important children know as well. Make sure to tell your kids that sharing with the family pet could make them very sick. Still, supervision is key. Tip: With chocolate bunnies in every basket, and chocolate eggs hidden around the house, it may be best if your pets are in kept in an “Easter free zone” during the festivities.

Easter Lilies

These flowers and beautiful and festive, but should be avoided at all costs if you share your home with pets. Easter lilies are one of the most poisonous plants for pets, especially to cats. Vomiting, lethargy and loss of appetite are symptoms of lily poisoning. Cats who take a bite of the flower can die from kidney failure in less than two days if left untreated. Tip: Try faux lilies for the same look without the risk.

Read the rest here…